The House of Traditional Medicine Ixchel

This text is written by our Allianz Foundation Fellow, Anuscheh Amir-Khalili. She shares insights from her travels as part of the fellowship and visits to her partner projects. Her second journey took her to Mexico, to the House of Ixchel—a place dedicated to traditional medicine and indigenous wisdom.

March 26, 2025

Two persons are sitting next to each other and are looking into the camera

Maestra Amparo and "Partera" Lita © Anuscheh Amir-Khalili

In Mayan mythology, Ixchel is the goddess of fertility, representing the cycles of the moon, birth, pregnancy, medicine, female craftsmanship, and war. The ‘Casa de Medicina Ixchel’, the House of Traditional Medicine, is named after her.

Located in Chimalhuacán, on the northeastern outskirts of Mexico City, the house sits on a quiet street. The warmly decorated grounds feature small, single-story houses, two clay sweat lodges (Temazcal), a kitchen, a communal living space, an herbal pharmacy, a classroom for aspiring midwives, and a medical treatment room. 

Surrounded by cacti, plants, fields, and the sacred Ahuehuete tree—believed to be a bridge between the underworld and the earth—this is where knowledge passed down through generations of indigenous midwives continues to thrive. 

Here, Maestra Partera Amparo, the founder of the house, shares her story—a story that begins with her late mother, Aida Araceli Soto Monzon. 

Aida’s journey started when she emigrated as a young woman from Chiapas to Mexico City in search of work. She endured harsh, underpaid conditions in a textile factory, earning barely enough for a small place to live and food to eat. 

But she carried with her something invaluable: deep knowledge of pregnancy care, infant health, and women’s ailments. She saw her calling in healing gynecological conditions and supporting childbirth. 

Aida defied exhaustion as well as the challenges of an unwanted new beginning and devoted herself to helping others. In the 1980s, she began supporting young girls in her neighborhood—those facing unplanned pregnancies, those in need of abortion care, and others with reproductive health concerns. She offered support to sex workers, looking after their children at night while working in the factory by day, treating and healing women excluded from the formal healthcare system. 

That was the world into which Amparo was born. From an early age, she accompanied her mother—a Maestra Partera, a master midwife—witnessing her dedication. Absorbing her mother’s wisdom, Amparo traveled across the country as both student and teacher, learning from the Mayan communities before returning nearly two decades later to Chimalhuacán. There, she and her allies founded the midwifery school, which opened its doors in 2018. 

Amparo is treating a person in the treatment room

Maestra Patera Amparo during a treatment © Anuscheh Amir-Khalili

Education as a Tool of Resistance

Chimalhuacán, a neighborhood marked by the legacy of colonialism, has long faced poverty and crime. With the support of students and farmers, the open school for children was founded here. They stood up against poverty and alcoholism, using education as a means of self-empowerment.

Alongside this school, the midwifery school was built. Amparo sees herself as a guardian of knowledge, most of which has been passed down orally. She insists that transmitting this knowledge in a non-commercial way is an act of resistance—just like the children’s school. It is a direct response to colonialism, which sought to erase indigenous language and wisdom but ultimately failed. The spiritual knowledge of the Parteras, the indigenous midwives, continues to live on and finds new life in 
Chimalhuacán’s midwifery school. 

At Amparo’s school, students first complete 13 months of theoretical schooling before accompanying a mentor for three years. After four years and one month of school and learning, the newly trained midwives must mention their teacher’s name every time they introduce themselves. This practice ensures that their mentor—affectionately called "abuela" (grandmother)—is not forgotten through this exchange of knowledge, in which she is named and honored. Additionally, by explicitly naming the abuela, it becomes clear that this knowledge is not institutional but rather traditional wisdom.

Patriarchy and Colonialism

In addition to seizing land through violence and oppression, colonial powers used patriarchy as a weapon to control women's bodies. Over time, men and their institutions took over general medicine and reproductive healthcare, stripping women of their autonomy. Decisions about pregnancy, childbirth, abortion, and postpartum care were removed from women’s control and became matters of male-dominated authority—regulated, controlled, and institutionalized. 

Cesarean sections became the norm rather than the exception. 

At the Casa de Medicina Ixchel, this control is rejected. Birth is seen as a sacred moment, guided by the wisdom of female ancestors and supported by the indigenous Rebozo cloth.

Rebozo - The Tool of the Parteras

The Rebozo is more than just a traditional cloth used to carry infants—it plays an essential role in childbirth. It is used to reposition babies in the womb, ensuring optimal alignment for delivery. Through a specialized massage technique, the Rebozo is gently moved across the expectant mother’s belly, releasing energy blockages and facilitating a smooth birth. 

No machines, no pressure, no induced fear, no stress. Just a cloth and centuries-old knowledge. 

During birth, Amparo and her student Lita explain that the female ancestors are present—the ancestors of the mother giving birth, the midwife, and the mentor who passed down the knowledge. The process is profoundly spiritual. 

In many post-colonial societies, indigenous ceremonial practices are often appropriated, deprived of their spiritual significance, and commodified as expensive services—accessible only to wealthy women. This is not in the spirit of indigenous midwifery or Amparo’s school. Here, knowledge is meant to inspire and be shared without commercial motives, honoring its collective and deeply spiritual origins.

A Midwife i using a rebozo to massage the back of a person

The rebozo is used during a treatment © Anuscheh Amir Khalili

The Midwifery School 

The mission of Amparo’s school is not to conceal this treasure of knowledge but to protect it and pass it on to those who will use it responsibly. There are no bureaucratic barriers — anyone who feels called to this work is welcome. The school collaborates with a network of midwives who regularly visit to teach and share their experiences. 

Over the past seven years, four generations of midwives have been trained here, with a fifth cohort, including Lita, nearing completion. More than 100 midwives have graduated, carrying traditional birth knowledge into their communities. The House of Traditional Medicine Ixchel has supported over 300 natural births, helping mothers embrace their own strength. 

Beyond its educational mission, the school provides young women and girls with free access to traditional indigenous healthcare—especially those excluded from formal medical services. 

Amparo and her students continue this work in honor of her mother. 

In Memory of 

Aida Araceli Soto Monzon.

May your knowledge spread and grow like seeds, may your name and wisdom never be forgotten.

About Anuscheh Amir-Khalili

Our fellow, Anuscheh Amir-Khalili, is a passionate anthropologist and women’s rights advocate who explores the interconnectedness of people, communities, and nature. In her quest for healing alternatives to patriarchal structures, she founded Flamingo, an NGO that has created a network offering refugee women and children safe spaces for trauma recovery and personal growth.

We will be publishing more texts by Anuscheh here in the coming months.

Here you can find more information about Anuscheh's work.

Anuscheh Amir Khalili sits at a table and is working with plants

Anuscheh Amir Khalili © Konrad Weinz